Advani Guides
From our years of delivering top quality bespoke garments, we’ve crafted a few top guides to share our knowledge and experience to help you on this journey of finding and using your very own bespoke clothing item. Should you have any questions about the process or tailoring in general, we encourage you to reach out to us, or organise a free consultation with Kumar Advani to answer any of your tailoring and custom clothing questions.
Jackets
Buttons
Shirts
Definitions
Collars
Mistakes
Jackets
The Short Guy
Lengthen your silhouette by wearing a one-button jacket with natural shoulders. A deep V will give length to your torso and the impression that you’re taller.
The Big & Tall Guy
A close-fitting three-button suit has the shortest V of all. Widening and shortening the torso. Remember to fasten only the middle button-the effect will remain.
The Skinny Guy
A double-breasted jacket gives more width: the button arrangement and fullness of extra cloth makes you look bigger. Ensure the jacket fits well around the waist however, otherwise too much loose cloth will have the opposite effect (make you look skinnier).
The Broad Guy
A two-button jacket gives a similar slimming effect as a one-button jacket. With a deep V between the lapels to lengthen the torso. Keep the fit snug to avoid excess cloth, which can add bulk.
Buttons
Button
Unbutton
Ties
Tip at The Waist
The point should just touch the waistband of your suit trousers, assuming. of course, that your waistband is properly on or just above your hipbone.
Dimple in The Middle
Just one dimple. In the middle, secured with a pinch. Edges that are curled forward are sloppy. Practice until it's right.
Tie it Tight
When tied, the knot should sit high under the collar, so that practically no material can be seen above the knot between the collar edges.
The Tie Clip
Designed to keep your tie in place, the tie clip should slide in from the wearer's right to grip both the tic and the placket of your shirt around the middle of the tie.
Know Your Neck Size
The collar fits when you can just slip your index and middle fingers side by side snugly between your collar and neck. Any tighter and you risk discomfort.
Personalised Monogram
Stick a monogram anywhere you like. The most classic location is directly below the middle of the breast pocket. Visible but not obtrusive.
Other options also include on your cuff - either in another colour, or same colour as your shirt.
Definitions
Collar Stays
Strips of plastic inserted under the shirt collar to give the collar points body.
Single-Needle Stitching
Process whereby a single row of stitches is used on shirt side seams at a time-two passes are necessary for each side seam-rather than cheaper, inferior double-needle stitching.
Oxford
A type of shirt cotton that employs a thick and a thin thread in the weave, giving a textured look, as used in the classic Brooks Brothers button-down.
Two-Fold
Two cotton threads twisted together into a yarn to make a dense, luxurious shirting.
Placket
The strengthening strip of cloth running from collar to hem of a shirt that includes the buttonholes.
Collar Options
Common Mistakes
What others observe on you when you wear off the rack.
Upward folds because of customer square shoulder
Downward folds on back because of customers sloping shoulders
Horizontal folds under back collar because of neckline too small
Back collar looks far away from neck because neckline too big
Too tight at back may because of big scapular or hunckback.
Folds on biceps
